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Car
Buyers' Worst Mistakes
by
Remar Sutton
How much money
do you think educated car buyers can save over uneducated buyers
when buying the same car? Would $5,000 get your attention? Not long
ago, I was involved in an undercover filming at a dealership where
consumers paid that whopping difference on the same car. And the
difference in the customers? One couple made the "big mistakes"
outlined here; the other didn't.
While you may
not save this much money, you'll save a bunch if you avoid these
classic car-buying errors.
- Showing
enthusiasm. If you act excited, the dealership sellers know they
have a unique product you want. The price goes up instantly. You'll
do well to keep that enthusiasm in check until you've driven home.
Sneer a little if you like the car.
- Buying in
a hurry. If you buy on your first visit to a dealership, you don't
have time to compare. If you say "yes" too fast, the price doesn't
fall. Take your time. Be willing to walk away. The price at most
dealerships falls quickly if you move slowly.
- Giving deposits
before the dealer approves your offer on a vehicle. Feel free
to give a deposit, if you really want a vehicle. But don't give
it until the boss has said "yes." Some dealerships use deposits
to keep you there while they try to convince you to pay more profit.
And you can't leave if they have your deposit -- money, a credit
card, a driver's license, or your kids.
- Being switched
to leasing without doing your homework. Because dealerships make
a much larger profit if they lease rather than sell you the same
car, even the best dealership is going to try to "switch" you.
They'll try to convince you leasing is cheaper than buying. Maybe.
But in most instances, it certainly isn't. If you want to lease,
fine. Just don't do it on the spur of the moment.
- Trading
in your old car without knowing its value in advance. A dealership
has the right to give you the least you will take for your old
car. But you have a right to get the most your car is worth at
that moment. To know that value, simply clean it up, and "shop"
it -- try to sell it to several used car departments. The highest
amount you're offered for it is your car's real value right now.
Don't accept less than that in trade.
- Financing
automatically at the dealership. Dealerships may not be the cheapest
place to finance. To find out, simply bring a copy of the filled-out
dealer contract to your credit union and compare contracts. If
the dealership won't give you a copy, they're probably telling
you they're not really the cheapest.
Big mistakes,
big bucks out the window. We like to help you preserve your money
--that's what credit unions are all about. Avoid these mistakes,
and put that money to work rather than throwing it away.
Editor's note:
Remar Sutton's car-buying tips have been featured on "Good MorningAmerica,"
"Today," "20/20," "Nightline," and in magazines such as People,
Newsweek, andCredit Union Magazine. He's President of the national
Consumer Task Force for AutomotiveIssues. He writes this column
exclusively for credit union members.
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Five
Tips for Buying a Used Car
Buying used
can make smart money sense--if you follow these five easy tips:
- Always have
a mechanic check out a used car before you buy it. Even if you're
buying from your mother. Use an independent service shop or diagnostic
center. Most charge about $125 for a complete check.
- Budget
any needed repairs as part of your purchase price. So, if a seller
wants $7,000 but the vehicle needs $1,000 in repairs, budget $8,000
for your vehicle. Or, better yet, negotiate the selling price
down to include the cost of repairs.
- Forget about
a used vehicle's "asking price." Smart used-vehicle buyers never
negotiate down from asking price, they negotiate up from "loan
value." Loan value is what most lending institutions will actually
lend on a particular vehicle. A loan officer at Mid American can
tell you this figure. For instance, if the seller is asking $7,000,
but the loan value is $5,000, you want to negotiate up slowly
from $5,000.
- Talk warranty
after you've settled on the price. And never accept a 50/50 warranty--the
dealer pays half of warranty-covered expenses. On any vehicle,
fight for at least a 30-day, 100% drive train warranty. If you're
also thinking about buying an extended service agreement, compare
Mid American’s extended service plan—it can save up you up to
50% off a typical plan offered through dealers and other third
parties.
- Always compare
the dealer’s used-car financing rates. Most states allow dealers
to charge much higher rates for financing used cars than for financing
new cars. For instance, a new car might be financed at 8% while
a two-year-old used car might be financed for 15% or higher. How
do you find the cheapest rate? Ask the seller to give you a completely
filled out copy of the finance contract, and bring it in to Mid
American.
A tip: Mid
American Credit Union finances used cars at new-car finance rates.
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Explore
Your Loan Options
If you're in
the market for a new car, you'll find several financing options.
It's nice to have choices, but they can be confusing or downright
expensive. In the end, you may be better off with conventional auto
financing from Mid American Credit Union.
These days,
more and more dealers are offering low-rate loans or cash-back rebates.
Most low rates that dealers advertise are for short-term loans.
For example, one dealer offers 1.9% financing, but only on two-year
loans. A new $20,000 car with a $2,000 down payment will require
$18,000 financing. That translates to an astounding $765 monthly
payment -- way out of reach for most buyers. Or, if you choose the
dealer's rebate plan, you forego the low interest rate loan but
get a $1,500 cash rebate. Adding the rebate to your down payment
can make Mid American Credit Union financing very attractive, because
the larger down payment reduces the amount you need to finance.
Which alternative
is best? Calculate your total finance charge and monthly payment
after you deduct your down payment plus the rebate--call a loan
officer at Mid American to help. Then compare your results with
the same figures if you take the dealer financing but finance the
higher amount. Or, if you own your house, a Mid American home equity
loan might look even better. The reason, of course, is that home
equity loan interest payments can be 100% tax deductible (consult
your tax adviser to see if you're eligible).
Whatever route
you take, beware of the "hidden costs" in dealer financing options.
First, the low-rate loans and rebates are almost always available
only on slower-selling models. These cars may have lower resale
values. Second, the low-rate loans can have prepayment penalties
and can require larger down payments. Third, these financing plans
usually are limited to dealer stock -- you may have to sacrifice
the color, style, and/or options you want. That's important, too,
because unwanted options easily can add 25% to 30% to the sticker
price of your car. Finally, treat the purchase, financing, and trade-in
as three separate transactions. One advantage of doing so is that
you're less likely to become confused -- the dealer can't quote
different prices for different financing options.
So, don't be
smitten by auto dealer low rate advertising --visit or call Mid
American Credit Union first to explore financing options.
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Taking
Delivery of Your New Car
The wait is
over. Your new car is in. Taking delivery is an exciting and emotional
event. But don't let your enthusiasm distract you from your purpose:
Make sure the vehicle in front of you is the vehicle you bargained
for. Before signing a receipt and paying for a new car or truck,
verify that:
- The vehicle
you receive is exactly the one you agreed to purchase and that
the dealer delivers it on precisely the terms you agreed to.
- The vehicle
is in perfect physical and mechanical condition.
- You completely
understand how to operate every system you'll use.
When you placed
your order you specified make, model, equipment, options, warranties,
and so on. However, due to mistakes, availability, or other factors,
you may not get exactly what you ordered. Sometimes options are
missing. Sometimes the dealer or manufacturer makes substitutions.
Check your new vehicle against your order, item by item. Don't accept
a vehicle that's missing items or features, or on which inferior
items have been substituted. You have the right to refuse or to
re-negotiate a lower price. Also require that the seller specifies
in writing all warranties and guarantees represented in your original
deal.
Some new vehicles
are damaged in manufacturing or transit. Make sure yours wasn't.
Inspect every body panel, fascia, trim item, upholstery, plastic
parts, carpets, and all other interior surfaces to verify that nothing's
damaged or repaired. Also test-drive your vehicle for at least 15
minutes with a dealership representative to make sure everything's
operating and that there are no unexpected noises, vibrations, or
odors. Some new vehicles have been used by dealership employees
as demonstrators or for personal use. Make sure yours wasn't. Inspect
the odometer: More than 40 or 50 miles should raise questions that
deserve answers. Take time to thoroughly check your vehicle before
you take delivery. That way pre-delivery discrepancies won't become
post-delivery headaches.
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Rebate
or Low Financing?
by
Remar Sutton
Cheap interest
rates! Thousands of dollars back! Manufacturers and dealers are
pushing these enticing incentives again this season, and, if you're
a savvy incentive shopper, you may save a bundle. But be warned:
Do it wrong, and you'll throw away those savings and even pay more.
Here's what's
really happening when it comes to "cash back" promotions, the most
popular incentive.
Rebates: Who
gets the money? Rebates sound so straightforward: Buy this car,
for instance, and get $1,000 back. In virtually all cases, the advertisements
you see for rebates are real: The manufacturer, not the dealer,
promises to send you a check after you've negotiated and bought
or leased a particular vehicle. The money, in theory, has nothing
to do with the price you may have negotiated on a vehicle.
What should
happen: The rebate money reduces what you're actually paying for
the vehicle. Let's say you've agreed to pay $10,000 for a car. The
manufacturer agrees to send a check directly to your home for $1,000
as a thank you. When the check comes, your total cost for your new
wheels is $9,000.
What does happen
many times: The rebate money becomes extra profit for the dealer.
The dealer convinces you to have the $1,000 rebate check sent directly
to the dealership. They offer to give you "credit" for the money
on the spot. But they don't really give you credit. For instance,
you agree to pay $10,000; they agree to give you "credit" for the
$1,000 rebate. You should owe them $9,000, but they draw up paperwork
showing you still owe them $10,000. You just lost $1,000. And you
generally won't see this trick occur because the sleight-of-hand
is hidden in paperwork.
How to prevent
theft of your rebate money: Don't make that gift from the manufacturer
a part of your negotiations with the dealership. Negotiate your
price on the new vehicle as if there is no rebate. And then have
the rebate check sent directly to you at home. Never allow
the dealership to "apply" it to the amount you owe them.
Will this work?
It will work every time! And, believe me, you can be sure that $1,000
savings is real when you receive it in the mail.
Editor's note:
Remar Sutton's car-buying tips have been featured on "Good Morning
America," "Today," "20/20," "Nightline," and in magazines such as
People, Newsweek, and Credit Union Magazine. He's president of the
national Consumer Task Force for Automotive Issues. He writes this
column exclusively for credit union members.
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What's
the Real "No-Dicker" Dealership Story?
by
Remar Sutton
Like most folks,
you probably think dickering over price at a car dealership is as
much fun as a barefoot hike on a bed of rusty nails. That's why
many dealerships--new and used--are promoting no-dicker policies
these days. Generally, all the major no-dicker operations promise
three things:
- One-price
policy on all vehicles--if the window sticker says $10,000, that's
really the price.
- Money-back
policy for some time period--from a day to a month.
- No-pressure
sales environment.
Their systems
aren't perfect, though. Money-back guarantees normally don't give
you back fees and other charges, and many also charge you for use
of the car. No-dicker places aren't free of pressure and salesmanship
when it comes to trying to sell you financing, insurance, and service
agreements, either. Even the best places will try to maximize profit
on these items and aggressively try to sell you a high-interest
rate loan and an unneeded warranty, if you let them. These places
also can give you less for your trade-in than it may be worth, if
you don't proceed carefully.
How to shop
no-dicker dealerships effectively?:
- Remember
that no-dicker doesn't mean "no-profit." The job of even the best
of these chains is to maximize profit on each and every customer.
Keep your guard up, and never buy on the first visit.
- If you plan
to trade your old car, drive it to several used-car operations
and see what they will pay to buy it outright. Don't take less
at the no-dicker place than the highest offer from your shopping
expedition.
- Know what
you can afford to spend before you shop. The people at your credit
union can help you budget--or just use common sense: Can you afford
to pay more than you're paying now? Or do you want to pay less?
- You never
want to buy a car with the thought of returning it. But if you
should need to return it, know in advance what that return will
cost you.
- Always compare
any dealership's financing with your credit union's financing--even
if the no-dicker financing looks cheaper. Insist that the dealership
give you a filled-out finance contract, take that contract to
your credit union, and then decide which has the best financing.
- Remember
that the people at your credit union aren't selling cars, so their
answers about the car-buying process are designed to protect your
pocketbook, not to drain it.
Editor's note:
Remar Sutton's car-buying tips have been featured on "Good Morning
America," "Today,""20/20," "Nightline," and in magazines such as
People, Newsweek, and Credit Union Magazine. He's president of the
national Consumer Task Force for Automotive Issues. He writes this
column exclusively for credit union members.
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Shopping
with Credit Problems
By
Remar Sutton
Ever been a
little late on a payment? Or had a spell when your payments were
really late? It’s happened to most of us, and you’ve probably worried
about how payment tardiness affects your credit rating.
That’s why
you may notice a popular advertising campaign at new- and used-car
dealerships: No Credit? Slow Credit? Bad Credit? No Problem! Come
see us, the Credit Fixers! But don’t jump in your old buggy and
head to the dealership just yet. If you really care about your pocketbook
and your credit standing, read on.
Why would dealers
want to draw customers with bad credit? Because the dealership usually
makes a lot more money on them. People worried about getting financing
generally don’t argue about the price of the car or the price of
financing. The result: big, fat profits--at times, thousands of
dollars more profit on a person with marginal credit than a person
with A-1 credit. Many dealerships even have special hardball sales
tactics for these customers. "Make your money on the poor folks,"
one sales manager said in a sales meeting. "That’s why they’re
poor."
How do you
avoid becoming a victim? Follow these steps:
- Know your
credit standing before you go to the dealership. The easiest way
is to apply for a loan at your credit union, and tell the loan
officer what you re doing: I’m thinking about a car, but want
to know if I’ll be approved. If the credit union says "yes," you’re
home free. If the credit union puts a condition on your approval--a
larger down payment, for example—or turns you down, ask why, exactly.
Ask what would get you an approval. Then do it, even if it means
postponing your car purchase until you have a handle on finances.
- When you
shop dealerships, don’t discuss credit at all. Shop for the car
as if you’re paying cash, and never be rushed. Your credit union
probably has good tips on shopping right.
- Agree on
a price before talking financing. If you need to finance at the
dealership, never finance on the spot. Shop financing at two dealerships,
at least. Always go back to your credit union for a financing
comparison. Your credit union may give you a dramatically lower
rate than the bad credit lenders if you simply pay down some extra
cash. Don’t be bullied. If a dealer begins to push you around,
get out of there. And tell your friends about your experience.
Don’t let past
credit problems make your credit even worse. Take your time, talk
to the people at your credit union, and make decisions calmly. You’ll
get a better price and a better credit rating, too.
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